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Whenever assembling a roll of London’s best restaurants, one might anticipate renowned award-winning venues. However, situated near the top among these culinary giants is a simple salonu found in a distant corner of northern London.

A Shocking Honour

The small Turkish spot, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the fourth top restaurant in the city by a respected culinary publication. The accolade has left the family completely shocked.

“I’m completely surprised,” says a proprietor, alluding to his parents’ dedication that culminated in their modest place achieving such a high ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

The small shop, which used to be a simple cafe before its change into a popular spot, has kept much of its earlier character. It accommodates just over 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking performance, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy place,” notes the owner.

A Star Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all down to the cuisine, and this eatery definitely delivers. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a moist, juicy quality.

It is then added into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. When the savoury mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is wrapped securely inside.

It is usually consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a strong punch of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The leading food critic described this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is doused in lighter syrup than is typical, imparting it a more intense, toastier and not overly sweet taste.

Outranking the Giants

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant full for less than £25, equivalent experiences at top-tier establishments can cost significantly more than that figure.

A Philosophy of Hospitality

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I do not agree with that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is hospitality, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is supported by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he was in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London visit this spot as a masterclass, to show them the traps of excess, and to show what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

A Journey of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not apprentice at elite restaurants. “I feel very happy of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to become successful, but this one first started seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum would be very tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a social life but her friends would come here to support her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

An Recognition for the Culture

This restaurant’s success is likely to echo beyond its own walls. “In my opinion numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the broader significance of this culinary triumph.